Nihi Sumba has been named the best hotel in the world – twice. Set on a pristine beach where horses frollick in the water in each day, it’s not hard to see why this is one of the world’s best and a choice of people seeking a sun-drenched and wild experience, that isn’t too far away.
So where is Sumba?
It may feel like it’s in another world, far removed from civilisation. But in reality, Sumba is accessible wilderness – about an hour and half’s flight from Bali. Sumba is the largest island in southern Indonesia, closest to Australia.
Once you’re on the island, getting to Nihi is an adventure. It’s about a 90 minute drive along rural roads, past small villages and shops, markets filled with vegetables and countless live chickens, and cheery kids who wave when they see the Hilux carrying visitors go by.
Nihi – on the edge of wildness
Nihi is described as “rugged luxury” and being “on the edge of wildness”.
As you drive into Nihi, you’re met with an incredible view from the top of the mountain, looking down across a pristine beach, with clear blue waters, palm trees and terraced farmland dotted along the coast.
This is the moment when it strikes. This is an incredibly special place.
It’s difficult not to just breathe out and instantly relax as you check in and meet the team who will be looking after you over the next few days – and then navigate the stairs and bouganvillea-lined walkways down towards the beach.
Then it was lunch and a few cocktails – and later, a walk back up the hill to check out our villa. Our home for the next few days. And what a home, and what a view!
One of the great things about Nihi is their connection to the local community, particularly through the Sumba Foundation. This has funded lots of incredible work on the island such as treatment and protection from malaria, and supporting the local kids through sport.
A great example of this was on our first night where the local children raced horses along the beach. It was a fundraiser to support the local sports centre, involving kids racing their horses along the sand just as the sun went down.
It was quite an experiencing – seeing the horses race, chased by their dog, and even a local farmer bringing their herd of buffalo down to meet everyone.
During our stay we visited a local school where the kids went absolutely crazy when we turned up – they were thrilled when people in our group dished out lollies and presents, and they greeted us with a song.
Nihi is famous for its horses. Check out the resort’s Instagram and you’ll see this is the drawcard for so many people.
You have the opportunity to not only meet and feed the horses but also take them for a supervised ride along the beach, and even swim with them in the crystal clear blue water.
The horses happen every day, so it’s quite easy to stake out your position to see them head down the beach – from the pool.
Living the island life can be tough going. Especially with all those stairs.
So it’s worth remembering that there’s a spa which is just a short drive away (or you can trek the hour and half to get there). It’s in a beautiful location, overlooking a beach with no footprints, and getting a massage with just the sounds of birds, waves and the odd mosquito in your ears.
So is Nihi worth it?
Let’s face it – this is a luxury hotel in an isolated part of the world so it doesn’t come cheaply. Especially when you factor in the cost of getting there, and the fact that most things are charged in US dollars.
But if you can afford it (and I need to acknowledge we got free nights thanks to my wife who is a former travel agent), it’s definitely worth it. Nihi is, as they say, on the edge of wildness and a very special part of the world with plenty of amazing memories to be made.